Norvège, douze points
I have a love-hate relationship with blogs and socialmedia. The need to be seen and heard and talked-about is perhaps common among human beings and has always existed somehow but the latest advances in technology (internet, digital photography, free blogging, sharing and networking tools) has made our wish to be seen, heard and talked-about very easily achievable and almost a dominant trait in us, in society. If you don’t post it, it never happened. If you don’t have X number of followers, you don’t exist.
My initial main purpose setting up a blog named portafilth was not so much to make noise and to be seen or heard but more a defensive move to stop annoying facebook friends with my frequent picturepostings in the coffeeporn album. An album full of close range low resolution mobile phone pictures taken on visits to out of town coffeebars, a way for me to remember the details of those trips and perhaps brag a little about the cool places where I had my cups of coffee.
So let’s get back on track and do some bragging again shall we? A filthy little travelreport about: OtotheStotheLtotheO = OSLO! Yeah!
Reading blogs and tweets, one might be led to believe that coffee in Norway is centered around Grünerløkka and the boutique specialty roastery/coffeebar named after almost-rockstarbarista and roaster Tim Wendelboe. This is, well at least in MY eyes, wrong. But TW was nonetheless one of the main pitstops for my 28hour Oslo visit last weekend. And TW did not disappoint.
The space is very nice, simple, functional, clean. Serving only coffee, selling coffeebeans and a very limited range of brewing equipment. We tried the sampling menu with all of the current five single origin coffees, all as Aeropress. It was really lovelly to have 5 great coffees served at your table, presented in such a beautiful yet relaxed way and most impressive was that all five coffees were brewed consistently, almost perfect. Sure the Kenyan coffees were slightly slightly too lightroasted even for me but still a great visit.
My Oslo favorite (we visited 3 times in 12 hours) was Fugeln dating from the late 60s, mixing vintage design pieces with great modern artwork, serving great coffee from not less than four Oslo roasters: Solberg & Hansen, Kaffa, Supreme Roastworks and your man Tim Wendelboe. Wine, beer and fancy fancy cocktails are also served. Even though Fugeln is trendy and well designed in a 60s Scandinavian Airlines way it does not appear over-designed, it actually feels like a home, you feel welcome. After over 40 years in Oslo they are now planning to open a second outlet in Tokyo.
Java coffeebar was perhaps my favorite coffeebar designwise: A long functional bar, open, big windows letting the sun in, beautiful mosaic walls and cool industrial lamps bolted to the ceiling reminding me of one of my favorite games Portal. Serving coffee from Kaffa in espressoform but also V60 and Syphon.
Another favvo place was Liebling: a nicely designed cafe slash design shop serving breakfast and coffees from Supreme Roastworks. Laid back, friendly and with some great details
Question: What 1M city can boast having a local coffeechain with 20 something outlets focusing on Cup of Excellence coffees? Answer: Oslo! Kaffebrenneriet is that chain. The few places I visited all offered not less than five cup of excellence coffees! When speaking to the Oslo baristas they actually didn’t recommend going here, that says a lot about the general quality of specialty coffee in Oslo.
Stockfleths is another local Oslo chain, clearly quality and specialty focused, with the first cafe dating back to 1895, serving beans roasted by Solberg & Hansen. To me Stockfleths and Solberg & Hansen is better respresentatives of Oslo coffee than Tim Wendelboe: Laid back, Old School companies not linked to any wave, hyped up and boosted by catchphrases on the internets. Institutions with traditions that have managed to keep up with the times with the same general high level of quality coffee today as when they were founded, well the last part is my guess I have no idea how the coffee tasted back then, but you get my point.
To sum up: Oslo is a very pleasant coffee experience, generally very high quality of brewing and coffee in general, a good selection of different local roasters and some lovelly designed spaces and great service..all in a pretty small town/city. Impressive. To me a very worthy Coffee Capital of Scandinavia, only challenged in Europe by London?
theDotheyevenHAVEspotifyinNorwayPlaylist
Rebecca & Fiona – If She Was Away
Fleetwood Mac – Everywhere
The Pierces – You’ll Be Mine






